Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

Although this is a 24km day (or 22.4km - or 23km, depending on which guide book you believe!) It is one the easier days on this section. The first 10km is on a flat path through many little hamlets all with acres of vegetables and fruit on both sides of the road. There are places to stop for a coffee and small shops to buy fruit or drinks. After Cacabelos you enter the vineyards and the path becomes a little steeper and more undulating. By then it is also hotter and the dust from the path covers your boots and lower legs in a fine powder.
We saw workers harvesting grapes in all the vineyards. Some carry the grapes in large, black plastic buckets which they tip into the back of lorries. Others pack grapes into white plastic crates which are stacked onto trailers behind tractors. One gang gave us each a big bunch of grapes the colour of dark plums. sweet and juicy for thirsty pilgrims!

As we entered Villafranca we visited the church of Santiago with its Puerta del Perdon where medieval pilgrims who were too ill to continue to Santiago could earn the same forgiveness of sins and indulgences as they could in Santiago. The doors were locked so no 'get out of jail' early for the amaWalkers! We got a stamp at Ave Fenix and I popped in to see Hermoine at the La Puerta del Perdon where we stayed in June.

This time I'd booked rooms at Casa Mendez which is on the other side of town, across the river. There are week-long fiestas in town and last night was a parade of 'gigantes' - giant characters - and a music fest at 8:3pm and mid-night. We were pleased not to be staying anywhere near the square. If you plan on booking accommodation ahead here is a tip. In most towns and villages with 'old' towns, the Pensions and Hostals in the old centers are not modern or 5-star and cost less than upmarket, modern hotels . If you want more upmarket accommodation you have to stay outside the old town. I much prefer to stay in the cheaper accommodation in the old quarter. Secondly, if you want a good night's sleep don't book a place on the plaza mayor (central plaza)as it could be the noisiest place in town! Last night was very quiet next to the river.

Molinaseca & Ponferrada

Everyone was a bit pooped today from the long, hot, rocky trail from Rabanal. The 7 of us who walked all the way decided to walk the last 5km, from Riego de Ambros, on the road as we were weary of rocks and shale. It was hot but it was a relief to walk on a smooth surface and we think it was a little shorter than the trail.

Zuretha, Theresa and Janette - Rabanal

Bell and Jill

On the way to to the Cruz de Ferro

Bell, Janette, Theresa, Zuretha, Syl and Jill and the Cruz de Ferro

Rocky path to el Acebo

Ponferrada in the far distance

Memorial to a fallen peregrina outside el Acebo

We walked on the road for the last ± 5km to Molinaseca

Slate rooftops of Molinaseca

Peregrinos bridge into the little village

Site of the most important gold mining in the Roman Empire.  22km from Ponferrada

This morning our taxis collected 7 of us from Molinaseca and took us to Las Medulas - a spectacular landscape created during the most important gold mining era in the Roman Empire (2000 years ago) and now a World Heritage Site about 22km from Ponferrada. Two of our group decided to walk to Ponferrada instead.

We had a wonderful stay in an old palace - La Casa del Reloj - in Molinaseca last night.Before we left Molinaseca this morning Bell and I were lucky to be given a guided tour of the private part of the 'Palace' by our host. It was very grand. Tons of antiques, art works, statues, carpets, a private chapel - with her grandfather's embroidered vestments hanging in a cupboard - and a fabulous refectory which she called her Bodegas. She also owns the park across the road. Very special place to stay.

 We are now in Ponferrada (Pons Ferrata or Iron bridge) a town with a masssive fortified Templar castle .
We were dropped off at the Hotel Temple, a very smart, 4-star hotel about 10 minutes from the Templar Castle.
Ponferrada once boasted at least 10 pilgrim shelters. Now there is only one, the Albergue San Nicolas de Flue that sleeps 200 people.
Tomorrow we walk ± 22km - depending on which guide book you believe! - to Villafranca del Bierzo. We are all tanned and looking fit!

Burgos to Leon and Astorga

We got a Jimenez bus from Logrono to

Burgos. 

From Burgos we got an ALSA bus to Leon - all tickets were pre-booked and paid for online

Jill, Janette, Theresa and Zuretha joined us in Leon.
We took an ALSA bus from Leon to Astorga and started walking from there to Villafranca del Bierzo

Photos from St Jean to Pamplona and Sept. 5th - Zubiri to Pamplona

The Virgin de Biakorri (1095m)

An equestrian pilgrim leading her horse

Spanish and Basque names on the signs

Judith in the mist:  The Col Lepoeder is 1430m

 Tricia and Alan

Bell and Hemingway!

Brian and Syl

I walked most of the way with Bell and Alan. We seem to have the same pace. Tricia likes to spend as much time as possible on the trail so she is a bit slower, by choice. Brian marches ahead. We had breakfast before we left so didn't go into Larrasoana, the first village after Zubiri. Its also one of the few villages you don't walk through on the Camino. The path up from the picnic site before Trinidad de Arre was very dry and stoney. I had to get to Pamplona before the banks closed at 2pm so after having a lunch in Trinidad de Arre, Bell and Alan walked on and I got a bus the remaining 4.5km into Pamplona. I was able to do the banking and then arrived at Pension Sarasate - almost home from home now! After checking in we had dinner at Bar Dom Luis. Good day today.